Tuesday, October 16, 2007

China: Beijing - Great Wall and the Ming Tomb

No trip to China would be complete without a visit to The Great Wall of China. There are many tourbus operators driving the 80km from Beijing to the wall and back.

All of them combine multiple sights to visit as a package. Great, except we heard stories of visits to high pressure showrooms with staff practiced in the hard-sell - remember the story the Norways told us of their tea purchase? The Lonely Planet mentioned that this tactic is ubiquitous, and suggested going for the more reputable operators.

Their stops are merely soft sell vists...

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Our hotel offered a reasonable package that we took. We were picked up early and zipped around central Beijing picking up the other tourists. Then it was on to our first destination; the Ming Tombs, about an hour north. Our group arrived to a crisp and cool mid morning to look about. Note the tortoise, housed in the pavillion behind.

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This is called Shengong Shengde Stele Pavilion housing the huge carved tortoise. He is the size of a small car!

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Following the tradition, Princess rubs his head to bring her some good luck. The stone head is polished on top!

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As we walk along, our guide explains to the group about various features of the site.

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The site is actually 7km paved road called Shen dao (the Spirit Way). We are nearing the tomb at the top of the road, set on a shallow incline. This three-arched gate near the top is known as the Dragon and Phoenix Gate.

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We continue up to the ghost gate; by stepping through this we enter the graveyard, which is linked to the spiritual realm. When we come back down we must pass back through the gate to ensure we leave the spirits inside the graveyard.

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We stand at the bottom of the tomb, which sits at the top of the incline. This shot makes it look smaller then it actually is.

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Princess leads the way as we headed through the gate in the curved wall; ahead is the tomb, which was once open.

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Looking at the sealed tomb up close. The Phillipino guy above and his wife, were part of our group. Princess was taller then both of them! (you can check in the group shot above)

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We climbed up the steps to the top of the wall, which curves back to the hillside and tomb behind.

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The view back down the road from the top of the wall is great.

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At the center of the arced wall is this shrine. This stone is one of the (very) few named tombs on the site.

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The incline of the surrounding area gives a grand view of a large area. After a good look at the shrine and view at the top, we headed back through the ghost gate and to our bus.

The next stop was an enamel vase factory and showroom tour, with a meal afterwards.

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We were guided through the construction steps. After a raw copper pot is turned, copper strips are soldered on the outside.

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The whole pot is slowly built up with layers of enamel paint. The workers apply hundreds of coats of paint of the required color, slowly thickening the pot and filling each section.

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After all the sections are thick with enamel paint, the item is fused in a kiln to harden the enamel and copper pot.

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Each item is then filed, sanded with various abrasives then buffed smooth. You can see a pot spinning on the polishing lathe above. Once all buffed, the product is lacquer sprayed and ready for sale.

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We were given a complimentary lunch served above the showroom adjoining the factory. The meal was huge and had a great variety of tasty stuff. We are going to need some energy later...

We looked around the large showroom for about an hour. There were lots of eager salespeople, but no one too overbearing. There were lots of beautiful items, but we as we were travelling light we had no room to carry trinkets.

We headed on to the Great Wall, specifically the Badaling section.

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The bus dropped us in a parking lot at the bottom of a valley that the wall cuts across. This guard building is at the bottom of the valley and is part of the wall.

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The wall traverses some very steep hills like this, and stretches off into the distance.

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Look how steep the banister is - far greater then 45 degrees here!

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We made our way up, which is hard going. As we pass this old man, Princess hears him farting from exertion - eeeeeew...

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Princess catches her breath as we admire the view from the top.

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Along this ridge, you can see some of the many guard houses.

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Here is the interior, long since unoccupied.

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This is one of the larger guard houses along the wall.

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We had to stop and admire the scenery:

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What a stunning valley!

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Amazing to see it extend off in both directions. It also splits in forks in parts, and is actually a network of walls.

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We walked along for over a kilometer before dipping back down to the valley floor.

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More steep stairs lead back down to the valley floor.

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Looking back up the wall we just climbed down. We had to find our own way back up the valley to the carpark which was a little confusing, but we eventually found it.

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In the carpark, Princess noticed something. Can you guess what caught her attention?

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Guess who is having a ride...

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Princess and the two-hump camel. After a lap or two around the carpark, Princess dismounts and we headed off to find our tour operator.

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Back on the bus, we head for Beijing. But on the way back, there are a few more sales opportunities!

First, we visit a "Health" clinic and get a free 5 minute foot wash and rub performed by a troupe of practiced youth. This was very welcome after all the climbing steep stairs. The initial relaxation was followed by 15 minutes of pressure selling of all sorts of health balms and pills.

In true cheapskate mode, we spent 15 minutes politely but firmly asserting that we didn't need any of these kinds of things, but thanks for the gratis footrub...

Our final stop at a shop called "Mr Tea" should immediately set off alarm bells for those who read our story on The Norways, but it was OK. It was hard sell, not extortion. Well, it was courteousy and smiles serving samples, then the hard sell.

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Toolman was wise enough to take a photo before the hard sell started. We adopted cheapskate mode again, and managed to avoid buying anything. Our host above got quite snarky when it became apparent that no one in the group wanted to buy anything!

The tour to all these places was a great day out, and the sales tactics came with nice perks - really worth it. Its like listening to an investment seminar just because it has nice food at the end - and in our case a foot rub!

Stay tuned for our travels back south towards Vietnam.

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